Monday, September 30, 2013

Leon and Astorga



Leon Cathedral in the Rain
We had a wonderful two days languishing in Leon while my foot was recovering. We were able to visit the incredible cathedral and the cloisters and museum next to it which house religious relics and statues from all the old churches in this region, a collection the likes of which I have never seen. I walked out in my own one evening while the guys were having a siesta and watched a bride arriving at the cathedral in a flowing wedding gown. How great would that be to marry in such a magnificent structure? We ate such good food and many pastries and cafes con leche that we felt like we had to make an escape. We were getting soft!

The good news is that my foot is completely recovered. Four days' rest did the trick. The bad news is that, although the 20k stage yesterday felt great, today we went 32k or about 20 miles, one of the longest stages on the Camino and I managed to get a few good blisters. Luckily tomorrow is 20k again so it's a little easier.

We are now in Astorga, a lovely town with the prettiest cathedral yet. There's a strange race of people here believed to be descended from the Berber tribes called the Maragatos and they still serve traditional Maragato food and cakes. We had some for dinner and it was interesting-a lot of very fatty pork, pork broth soup and some vegetables which tasted like cabbage and I'm pretty sure that there was some pork in them. Did I mention that the  Maragatos are dying out now? I wonder if heart disease is playing a part....

We're in the attic of a huge albergue tonight and for once, John and I have single beds side by side pushed together. It's nice just to hold hands. The rain is beating down on the roof. Tomorrow our rain gear will come out again but tonight we're going to sleep like rocks!
Market day in Leon

Most popular dog in Spain 
Coming into Astorga

I loved this door!       

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